Welt-shoe.



G. A. DOBYNEI WELT SHOE. APPLICATION FILED IAN.4, 1915.

Patented Dec. 25, 1917.

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GEORGE A. norm, or sr. LOUIS, MISSOURI, AsSIeNon 'r CHAMPION SHOE MACHIN- nmz COMPANY, or Sfr. LOUIS, MISSOURI, A OOnPonArIoIg' or MISSOURI.

Specification of Letters atent.

Appucation mea January 4, 1915.1' serial No. 515.

In the ordinary Goodyear-welt shoe, the' upper is lasted against a. channel lip on the insole, the welt is attached by .a seam passing through the welt, upper and channel lip,

and the Outsole is sewed to the welt. This method of fastening the welt requires an in'- sole of high grade leather, otherwise the welt seam, which 'really holds the upper, insole and outsole together, will tear. It is, therefore, impractical to use low or' medium grade insoles or welting in Goodyear-welt shoes. Many attempts have been made to attach a. welt to a McKay lasted shoe by a metallic seam passing through the welt and upper and directly through the insole, but without success. When using the ordinary nail with low or medium grade welting and insoles, the seam was not watertight and would readily tear, as the fasteners would tear through thesoft insole and welt. When a staple fastener was used the resultant sole was sti, and the inside of the shoe was rough. Now, in addition to strength of seams, a shoe should have the characteristics of flexibility, and non-protrusion of points through the insole.

Some of the objects of this invention, therefore, are to construct a shoe ofthe Welt type, in which the welt is attachedto the lasted upper by a metallic fastener` seam, which permits the" use of low and medium grade insoles and welting', and which is characterized by maximum strength of seams, flexibility of sole, and ar smooth insole surface.

Further objects will appear 'from the detail description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which:

Figure 1 is a sideelevation of a shoe embodying this invention;

Fig. 2 is a bottom view of the shoe before the outsole is attached;

Fig. 3 is a. section on the line 3-3, Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is a section similar to Fig. 3, but with the outsole in place;

Fig. 5. is a section on the line 5 5, Fig. 3;

and more j along the seam,

The outsole is secured in position by means of a seam 21, which vturned back into the insole,

Fig. 7 isan enlarged view of Fig. 6;

Patented Dec. 25,1917.

Fig. 6 is a section on the line 6 6, Fig. 4;

Fig. 8 is a perspective view .of the fastener and, F 1g. 9 is an enlarged -view ofthe point of the fastener.

- Referring to the accompanying 10 designatesthe upper, 11 the insole, V12 the with the Iusual McKay practice. The welt 15 is secured to the'upper by a metallic fastener seam comprising metallic fasteners 18 f outsole, and 13 the heel of a shoe. The up? lper is lasted over the insole in accordancehaving laterally projecting heads 19 and points 20. The point 20 of the fastener is turned or deflected slightly to make an abrupt bend at the extreme end thereof, as

shown in Fig. 9. This is accomplished in` theV process of forming the fastener, and its object is to so form the point that the dir cotion of the clench will be accurately con#l trolled, whereby the point will be clenched in a predetermined direction by'theclenching anvil. This fastener is shown and described in U. S., Patent #1,072,213, September 2, 1913. In the former fastener, however, the head was of'a bevel form, so as to countersink in, the shoe sole. In this construction, however, the head 19 extends laterally from the shank for a distance equal to from` one and one-half to three times the thickness of the shank. The fastener is driven from the welt side, through the welt, upper and in sole, with the point clenched and turned back on the insole, and with the laterally projecting head engaging the welt, as shown in Fig. 7. The fasteners are so inserted that the heads and clenched points will project in the same direction, and in a direction as shown in-Figs. 2, 5 and 6.

may be a lock stitch seam, and the space between the outsole and insole is preferably `lled with the usual cork filling 22.

It will, therefore, be seen that, in this shoe,

the welt 1s attached by a metallic fastener seam, comprising fasteners passing through the welt, upper and insole, with the heads engaging the welt, and the clenched points as shown in Fig. 7. Where the usual head is used, Such, for instance, as shown in the patent referred to, this head will be countersunk, and, in doing so, will start to tear or disrupt, the material,

Now, since the outer layer of material, which has been condensed by the rolling processes, etc., is stronger than the interior fibers, a tear once started will easily give. It is for this reason that a countersunk headwhich sinks or tears the fibers on the surface of the leather will readily tear out. Now, in accordance with this invention, thev head 19 projects laterally from the shank a sufficient distance so that the driving of the fastener through the material will cause this head to clamp and compress the material without, however, tearing it. While, therefore, the head is somewhat countersunk, it does not actually enter the material, but' simply carries the material around the head with it by a compressive action. fibers are, therefore, maintained intact, so that the total amount of material in the welt is under the fastener head. This, of course, results in a maximum strength material, and, moreover2 results, on account of the clamping action, 1n an exceedingly tight seam.

In referring to Fig. 7 it will be noted that the point of the nail is clenched back into the insole. In the formation of the clench, the defiected point will be turned toward the shank of the fastener. Moreover, when the deflected point of the nail. strikes the clenching anvil it will itself be bent laterally, so that when it turns back into the insole it will curl towardthe shank. This will give the clenched point the effect of fish hook an chorage, the laterally deflected point acting as a barb to prevent the clenched point from working upwardly above the upper face of the insole. The nail is thus supported in the sole against movement either upwardly or downwardly.

A shoe sole must be capable of being fiexed inwardly, and must, therefore, be flexible when bent in that direction. It need not, however, be very flexible in the other direc tion, that is, when flexed outwardly. In a laminated structure comprising the insole,

upper and welt fastened together by the me tallic fastener seam, the flexing of the sole The outer layer of will not cause an elongation of the bers of the welt, but merely a compression of the fibers at the insole. The compression is, however, negligible. Now, it will be noted that, since the heads of the fasteners do not enter the Welt, and do not retain any part thereof, the welt fibers are just as free to elongate as if the fasteners were not present. Moreover, the arrangement in which the heads as well as the clenched points extend along the seam further enhances the flexibility of the sole in a direction along'the seam, as the fasteners will, thereby, not interfere or re-l strict the fiexure of the sole.. The resilient sole will,--therefore, be exceedingly flexible. Furthermore, the arrangement of the laterally projecting head engaging and clamping the welt will not only produce a tight seam, but a seam which has great strength. The clenched point will not only form a smooth insole, but these points, being anchored in the insole, will not work up therethrough.

It is obvious that various changes may be made in the details of construction without departing from the spirit of this invention. It is,'therefore, to be understood that this invention is not to be limited to the specic details shown and described.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:

A shoe comprising an upper, an insole, a welt, a metallic fastener seam for attaching said welt comprising headed metallic fasteners passing through the welt, upper and insole with the heads engaging and bearing upon the surface of the welt and with the points clenched on the insole, the head of each fastener projecting laterally from its shank an amount sufficient to firmly clamp and compress the welt but without rupturing the fibers thereof, and an outsole attached to said welt.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in the presence of these two witnesses.

GEORGE A. DOBYNE. Witnesses:

MARTHA J. BAsCH, IDA BIcxroRD, 

